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After about 5 years of down time, I finally got my Lo-15c clean and shiny again.
*grins* Hasn't looked this clean since 1963 probably.

So, next step, connect everything again and see if it works.
First off, there's an "extra part" laying on the bench. I have no idea what is or where it goes.
Mystery Part

Secondly, when I press the LT button on the Call Control Unit, it runs open. I noticed a open resistor by the selector wiring.
Disconnected

Any help is welcome.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Nice to see you on here

Sorry cant help with the extra parts, but I am sure one of the experts will comment soon enough

Sean

Well, one problem down.

As a test, I unplugged the Lorenz from the CCU and directly into the TW-39 card on my i-Telex box.
Pushed the LT button to turn the motor on, and Presto! The Lorenz fired up and sat there patiently waiting for me to type something or feed it a punched paper tape.

(From the Three Stooges) "Slowly I turned. Step by step. Inch by inch."

Jeff

Does anyone have a clean .pdf copy of the Lorenz Lo-15b schematic?
The one I have appears to be a photograph and isn't very clear.

Jeff

"Always something." The internal supply on the Lo-15b went tits up.
At first I suspected the selenium rectifier, but on opening it up, apparently it had already gone tits up and had been rebuilt with silicon diodes.
However, the 50 uF filter capacitor was reading 0.2 uF so that got replaced and finally Gr3 was open.
Now there's 90 VDC across terminals a2 and b2.

Thank you to everyone that helped.

Jeff

Previously, I had commented:
First off, there's an "extra part" laying on the bench. I have no idea what is or where it goes.

I found out where it goes, between the punch paper tape guide and mounting hole behind the chad box top.


I was going over a collection of Lo-15b pictures, and I spotted that and said, "Oh, that's where it goes!"

Now to find out where the 2nd screw went, it appears to be 3.5mm.

Jeff

Ok, next on my list reprogramming the answer back drum.


How do I remove it?

I figured it out finally. In the picture above, you can see a metal spring clip on the shaft below the coding drum.
Rotating it around the shaft 90 degrees, lifts the wire ends up out of the slots so you can slide the drum out.