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Hi Frank,

Not really a guide, but a general idea as follows.

Any 10uf Tantalum capacitor will be either faulty, or will develop a fault within hours of operation,

These are located on the main board, as well as the other boards that stand vertically towards the power supply.

The Printer Driver board is particularly nasty, because a shorted capacitor here will end up with a fire - usually there are four 4.7uf capacitors hiding here that are the cause of the problem.

Generally the 1uf Logic IC decoupling capacitors are ok, but can be replaced for a true 100% reliable job.

There are also a few 33uf capacitors, but these are normally reliable.

You may also find green sticky goop over the main board near the power supply - this is from the power input filter, and can sometimes cause problems with the power connections.

The power supply can be troublesome - there are a number of people that have suffered complete failures, and this is because thick film modules, that are unobtainable and not documented fail - there are workarounds now, and we do have members that offer a reconditioning service.

Otherwise search the forum, this machine has good support here, and i think all faults will have been written about here at some point.

Hi Frank,

Regarding the power filter, I would not remove it - the power supply is so called Switched Mode, and this filter helps to reduce interference. It is enough to clean up the leaking green mess, and seal the original filters with some kind of resin or potting compound.

The failure here is the polymer compound it was never reckoned with a 50+year design life

We hope for the best. This is why I travel from the UK to Germany to collect machines - Having had one machine damaged in transit I will just drive to collect - these arent being made any longer

Wenn die Auspolsterung gut ist, kann ein T1000 auch auf der Seite transportiert werden. Optimal ist es natürlich nicht.

Wenn die Maschine heil angekommen ist, Brücke 5 und 6 am Stecker setzen und erstmal einschalten.
Wenn alles funktioniert, nur erstmal die 4,7uF auf der Druckersteuerung tauschen. Das sind die kritischsten Kondensatoren.
Dann kann man weitersehen.
Wenn alles funktioniert, würde ich die 10uF Tantals tauschen und "frische" Elkos hoher Qualität im Netzteil einbauen. Dann sollte die Maschine erstmal langfristig wieder laufen.

Mich würde schon interessieren, ob der Fernschreiber ein Lebenszeichen von sich gibt, aber besteht dabei nicht die Gefahr unnötiger Schäden?


A short test is unlikely to provoke damage - if the power supply is unhappy about excessive loading, it will shut down with an annoying clicking noise.

But remember, a short test should be just that, enough to prove basic functionality - local mode operation, CR LF and carriage moving, maybe a few characters on the keyboard.

Once the magic smoke escapes it is harder to put it back

Kannst ihn ruhig testen. Folgeschäden gibt es nicht. Entweder funktioniert er oder nicht.
Nur, auch wenn er funktioniert, sollten zügig die 4,7uFauf der Druckersteuerung getauscht werden.

Try Local mode.... Top left row of buttons looks like "I"

It should power up and keyboard becomes active

Sorry, in English, but.....
https://www.cryptomuseum.com/telex/siem ... 0V_opr.pdf

There are Two (I think) retaining screws - one at the end of the power supply, opposite to where the power and line cable enters the machine, and one at the opposite end, on the upper face.

Loosen the screw on the upper face (it has a slot to allow the PSU to slide out, and remove the screw on the end of the PSU - it should slide away from the power connection.

I would think the green goop has partially insulated some of the power connector pins - perhaps this needs cleaning.

Another document for you - Though, again in English, and sadly not really a service manual - Perhaps one of our German members can help with this?