Da die alte Mitgliederkarte schon lange nicht mehr vom Entwickler gepflegt wird und mit der kommenden Umstellung auf php 8.x überhaupt nicht mehr funktionieren wird, habe ich mich für eine andere Lösung über Geonames.com entschieden. Die Karte bietet mehr Features, einen integrierten Event-Kalender und POI-Marker, ist also um einiges komfortabler und flexibler. Leider lassen sich die Daten aus der alten Karte nicht in die Neue übernehmen, wobei dort aber auch fast 50 falsche Einträge (mitten im Meer, der Wüste und sonstwo, wo sicherlich keiner wohnt) gesetzt worden sind. Daher würde ich gerne alle bitten, die weiterhin auf der Benutzerkarte verzeichnet sein wollen, in UCP (User Control Panel) den eigenen Standort durch Eingabe des Landes und der Postleitzahl neu zu setzen.
Die Karte kann über diesen Link oder über einen Klick auf das Icon in der Navbar des Forums aufgerufen werden.
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As the user map has not been maintained by the developer for a long time and will no longer work...
W2HX helped me with some information on getting the unit to work with 45.45 baud.
There is a DIP oscillator crystal on the front PCB upper left. If we change this to a different frequency then we can copy 45.45 baud
I believe the crystal frequency should be 2.61792 MHz
Will this work ?
Ideally I would want to copy 45.45 baud (60 wpm) and 100 wpm
If I change the crystal so it works for 60 wpm, how will this affect the speed switch on the T-1000 ?
In a perfect world I would set the switch to 50 wpm and it would actually copy 60 wpm, and then if I set the switch to to 100 wpm it would copy 100 wpm.
If that does not work for both speeds I could wire up a small switch with relays to switch between the 2 chips
I have almost finished restoring my T1000Z - took me 4 months
I took it completely apart(not the printer). I changed all the electrolytics and tantalum caps, except for the 2 large electrolytic caps in the power supply sitting in those black plastic cylinders.
I have it working on local loop, but it is doing strange things.
If I try to type on the keyboard and punch a tape, it works for anywhere from 2 characters to half a line, but then it stops punching and go into a hold mode. I then have to press the I button to activate the keyboard again.
How can I prevent this from happening ?
Next problem - how do I connect it to a demodulator ? There was a sticker on the case that said 60vdc and 40 mA.
Is there a power supply inside that has this voltage ? There must be something, because it works on local mode.
There is a cable that comes out and it has multiple colored wires. The 1/4 plug was ripped off accidentally,
so I don't know how to hook it up to a demodulator. Do I need a separate...
I am trying to restore a T-1000Z.
the printhead slides on a carriage bar, and uses a thin metal cable to pull the printhead from side to side.
The cable is broken, and I don't know how to replace it.
Where can I get this cable ?
Are there any diagrams on how to restring this cable ?
Hi Sean,
I am restoring the T-1000Z - It's in bad shape.
Is there a parts list for the boards ? I'm not sure which capacitors to replace on the motherboard. I thought there were some tantulum capacitors to replace, but I don't recognize any. A parts list would be very helpful for all the boards. I have a diagram of the motherboard showing the component placement, showing C1, C2 etc, but I would like to match it with a parts list.
I cannot find an exact replacement for the 2 large 500 mF electrolytic capacitors that sit in the rabbit ears .
would 490 mF be close enough ? I found some but the diameter may be a bit too big. They are also $60 each !!
Does anyone have any suggestions for replacements ?
I am starting to restore a Tiemens T1000. Very dirty. I have cleaned the power supply and will now start on the other boards and the mechanical portion. I will start it with a variac. Should I replace the electrolytic caps in the power supply first ? I will be expensie - there are a lot of them. After I clean all the mechanical parts, is there a document to explain what oil or lubricant to use, and which parts need lubrication ? Is there a manual on how to maintain it and a lubrication schedule ?
Yesterday I acquired a new machine: RFT F2000A. Originally it was in service at the Hungarian Railways but was already decommissioned when I found it. Photos of the device are below.
Conditions:
2 keys are missing, and 2 more have weak springs, not pushing them back to normal position. Is it possible to fix the weak keys?
Somewhat loud high-frequency noise coming from the back of the device - similar to the one you hear near switching power supplies. Needs further investigation - opening the individual modules
Plastic cover for the punch tape unit is broken, and the punch tape holder wheel is bent
The most interesting one: the device is configured to communicate in the Hungarian language! When I powered it up it printed in Hungarian the following text: Data loss. Change batteries
I found the battery compartment and will change them today. Somewhere I read that the machine identifier was stored in the EPROM, so hopefully, that is still intact. But...
Great to see such enthusiastic support for these old machines.
I have just acquired two ex-Royal Navy T1000 based machines (TGN4) that seem to be in reasonable operating condition - they power on and operate in local mode with functional tape punch and readers.
My eventual aim for these machines is to get them connected to each other and/or the outside world.
Whilst appearing identical, one of the machines has a clip installed on the carriage return/line feed key (enter key) to prevent it being depressed. This appears to be easy to remove but I wondered if anyone knows why this might have been installed ?
I'm also looking for some components to complete the machines.
Does anyone know a source for:
1. A chad collection box for the punch
2. The paper roll holder spindle
3. New ribbons as the installed ribbons have long since dried up.
4. An AD08 plug to allow me to attempt building an interface for the unit. These machines came with an additional Amphenol type 10 pin...
Dear forum members!
I recently acquired a Siemens T1000S machine, in okay conditions. I started the bring-up process, and had some limited success:
- By connecting pin 5-6 on the ADO-8 connector the machine is now stopped blinking the online led
- I was able to print diagnostic information using code 39. Monitor also working
However, when I try to switch the machine to online mode, the fan and the light came alive then after 3 seconds, it goes back to idle mode. Please see the video for visual clue:
My question:
- Is there any documentation in any language(but preferably in English) that explains the diagnostic results for code 39
- Do you have any clue about the unable to local mode issue I wrote in above
- Do you have any documentation or schematics for the machine in the forum? I tried the search functionality, but with google translate, it seems like I was out of luck.
I recently bought a T1000 being sold as broken on the local auction site.
It was marked as Regie T& T
After inspecting it it seems to not have any big problems in the mechanics or core electronics: local mode works,
as does the tape punch and reader.
There was a lot of white crystalline fluff on all black hard plastic parts. It seemed to dissolve in water, so this was
not a big problem, I hope it's not toxic or anything :scratch:
The main electronics board (GE) seems to be a variant of the GE2 board I saw in the service schematics, however, the
big capacitors seem to be elkos not tantalums.
Here's a photo of the GE board.
(I did replace some of the old elko's with new ones as the telex would seem to reset as soon as it tried to print a character,
I measured 2vpp spikes on the 12V line when that happened)
However, I have not had any luck getting the line interface working. It seems to be a variant that only uses one pair,
besides this I don't know much yet.
I have a Siemens T1000 machine that I want to restore. I acquired it several years ago here in the States. It appears to have been used as a Telex machine. It is in rather poor condition. I have been trying to disassemble it to begin evaluating it. I have an Operator's Manual and a booklet called Description - General Section . Are there detailed instructions for how to disassemble the machine? I have removed all the components from the base but I need to know how to disconnect the typing unit from the power supply unit. I will try to post some photos later if that is allowed.
More a way to make sure that I never loose the HEX dumps I have taken from my machine (and now a spare set of EPROMS to help with repairing other machines).
I had a day at the Nuclear Bunker today, and was having a bit of a tidy up in the teleprinter room.
I opened a very dusty cupboard, and look what I found :)
it looks to be a line current version, perhaps over the weekend I will clean all the dirt from the machine, and then delve into the electronics to see if it can have a short play on I-Telex.
IMG_20200529_142147_707.jpg
I think it might be ex Reuters - there are a couple more Transtel machines at the bunker (they all really do not belong there, but the owner will not dispose of them)
Some of you are probably sick of hearing about the mad happenings in my radio shack, but for those of you that are slightly interested, please see some of the ramblings from me regarding the ongoing process of restoring the BT Cheetah 85 Teleprinter.
I must firstly thank Rainer, Henning, and Werner for their help so far-each of you have played a part in getting this far.
So, to set the scene.
The British Telecom Cheetah 85 and 87 Teleprinters are both very similar electrically, they were a joint venture with SEL Lorenz, and the Lo3000 is almost exactly the same machine in a slightly different case. This machine appeared on eBay earlier this year, and was a fairly good price (£75GBP) It was located in the North West of England, so required a 3 hour drive to collect it - At this point it is fair to say that my long suffering Wife accompanied me for this trip, and she does not share my enthusiasm for all things old and electrical.
My original plan was to use this machine as a source...
Not really a restoration, but at the end of last year I purchased a T56 FSG from eBay.de.
It is fully functional, but the cover was badly scuffed.
So, RAL6014 in Satin finish is a reasonable match to the original - I still need to wait for the paint to harden before doing a final cut back and light polish, but the results are acceptable.
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